The mighty Mistral

This week has been nature’s gentle-but-firm reminder of who’s actually in charge out here. We planned our route, finished our training, wrapped up our jobs, set our departure day, even did the provisioning. And then — along comes the Mistral, mighty enough to pin us to the dock for over a week.

I know the motion of a boat when we’re heeling under sail, wind in our hair, ocean washing up around us. But I have never experienced as much movement while tied to a dock. The boat bucks and sways like it’s trying to sneak out without us, and when I step onto land I’m convinced the ground is moving too. The sound is something else entirely. The wind whistles across every surface, the ropes creak as they’re yanked back and forth, the fenders squeak as they’re squashed and released, and the halyards play a full percussion section as they slap against the mast. At first it was fascinating — even a bit funny in its sheer volume — but after a while the constant noise becomes surprisingly tiring.

I used to wonder why the mechanics in the port wore ear defenders all day. I assumed it was the engines. Nope. It’s the wind. One of them laughed and told me he’s so used to wearing them he sometimes forgets to take them off when he goes to the shops.

The Mistral is an intense, cold, dry wind that barrels down from the north through Provence, especially the Rhône Valley and the Riviera. It can blow for days, sometimes hitting 100 km/h, and it has a special talent for making boats skitter across the Mediterranean. But it also has a cleansing effect — sweeping away dust and pollution and leaving the air crisp, bright, and impossibly clear.

Despite its challenges, the Mistral is iconic here in Le Midi. It’s been celebrated in art, literature, and music for centuries. Locals see it as a purifying force, chasing away rain and impurities and promising blue skies ahead. Mistral (wind) - Wikipedia

So with that in mind, we’re embracing a slightly delayed start. Nature always gets the final say. But she’s leaving us with pure air, bright skies, and — fingers crossed — fair winds to carry us to our first stop at Port St. Gardian.

Here is a video to give you a glimpse of our mistral motions!